Wednesday, February 14, 2007

Living La Vida Punta...

Leaving the lazy lifestyle of lackadaisical La Paloma for the premium properties of Punta del Este's picture perfect peninsula, we decided to take a scenic course...

Blasting down a dirt road past a man and his horse...

To a ferry and boat with a shared power source, and into...


Punta del Este is an exclusive escape for the world's rich and famous. The typical traveller heads for the hyped hysteria of Rio de Janeiro and Buenos Aires only to find surpise that wise affluents of Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay realize the disguise that hides Uruguay's paradise. Think you've seen it but can't remember where? Let us give you a hand...

This relatively new sculpture has become the icon for Punta del Este and Uruguay, as the reputation grows for both city and nation. It's one of many modern and historical samples of art and architecture that represent this region. This voluptuous span marks the entrance to town...

An edifice erected in an earlier era, this historic brick building was originally designed and contemporarily remains one of the elite hotels. It's classic style is unique among the majority of towering modern condominiums...

Unlike the tranquil single-story character of Uruguay's other fabulous vacation communities, this one is exhibits a vertical disposition of endless activity...

Originally, this primary port of trade that also commanded strategic significance outside the mouth of the Rio de Plata. Today it's beacon has more form than function...

Across the street, a single hue connects man and God outside a historic house of worship...

From nearby Isla de Goritti, Spanish cannons lie dormant in the ruins of a sentinel fort while the city welcomes a new form of international invasion...

A lollipop shaped asphalt wharf, formerly mired in moorings, now hosts casual strollers and daydreaming fishermen. Thwarting authority, a band of rascals practiced high diving as we waited for the sunset. The horizon hides Goritti Island...

Wealthy visitors thirsting for luxury and live shows--with a twist of gambling madness--enjoy evenings at Punta del Este's pre-eminent establishment, the Conrad Hotel and Casino...



Besides buildings, Punta del Este boasts a bay bustling with boats. This three-masted maritime throwback is El Capitan Miranda--Uruguay's training vessel for new naval recruits to learn the ropes...

Purists and tourists crisscross the bay by motor and sail to reach a secluded beach on Isla de Goritti. Cruise ship crews smile while landlubbers re-discover the shore seeking exotic stores, aquatic sports, eateries, beaches, bars and more...

Anything that floats, from boogie boards to billionaire boats, can be found bobbing in the harbor waves off the Isla de Goritti...

You may notice, at first, good boats for your photos, but be wary! Maritime birds alert with a cry that their mates and their eggs are nesting nearby...

The peninsula's sunset side offers the calm waters along Playa Mansa. This is where folks go for every activity known to H2-O...

On the day that we left was a sailboat race that graced the great view from our fabulous place...

As the sun looms low, the ship horn booms a long, slow blow letting passengers know it's their time to go...


Punta's peninsula points south promising plenty of sun. On any day not a dawn or dusk must be missed...

Sunrise is best if you wake by your deck with a hot cup of tea or taking the dog for a trek by the sea....

Despite a blue sky, the wind won one day--she blew whitecaps around and the people away...

But the crowds and the clouds could as swiftly return while a triumphant sun would continue to burn...

Some pictures are worth more than a thousand words...



Night is like a warm black blanket with twinkling sequines. Stars that seem right but in odd and strange places form a cross pointing south past the moon's changing faces. While planets snuggle in the celestial covers, a comet stretches its glorious tail...

The sky may sleep but the people keep up--they can't take a break from the summer-party atmosphere. This street is Golero--every eve it's a nocturnal walkathon of revellers, restaurants, vendors and big spenders.

An artisan market with exquisite works that beckons to visit is just one of the perks...

But romancing and dancing at clubs and casinos is even more fun than the pubs and fine vinos...

Or, whenever we want, an asado soiree! Thanks to Uruguay's uniform cultural pulse, many new friends were in Punta and joined us for yet another meaty midnight dinner...



Danil is the father of Justo's young friend, Cecilia. He, along with his wife and first mate, took us out on their boat to enjoy Isla de Goritti two days before our barbeque party...

That day, Dora, his wife and master of ship-to-shore maneuvers, helped Leandra and I explore the island's hidden beaches, forests and fort ruins...

As cocktails swizzled and carne sizzled Javier arrived with his fellow elephant-riding world-travelling wife, Monica, and their two adorable children...

"Hola Mateo and Milena! Smile!" Although both are becoming bilingual, they proudly refused to use it. Instead, their perfect rolling R's made us feel tongue-tied...

Meeting Cecilia was sweet after the island retreat with her parents...

Juan Pablo rejoined us after town hopping with other friends. Soon, he's going solo to Spain and western Europe. All of Justo's friends are awesome...

Jong Ah found us again after being Punta bound for her first stint as reporter--a job she won in a contest! We think the judges liked her down-to-earth style and international smile--like we do. She missed the asado, but together we repeated Goritti!



So, now we should show what South Americans know...starting with the beach, Playa Brava, within a stone throw's reach from the deck of our flat...

Perhaps Playa Mansa's calmer waters are even better than that...
Justo and I joke about us being twins, one taller, one shorter--here, he needs fins...

On the summertime stage the beach is the center. But...it may even be cooler alone in the winter! More like home!

This one speaks for itslef. If you want to try and describe it, post it in the comments...



The unihabitated Isla de Goritti is a guarded jewel on Punta's horizon--a public treasure for everyone to discover. Though historians can hike to former stone forts, and fishermen flick bamboo poles by old ports, enjoying the beach is the king of the sports...

The Atlantic wears down the rock as Punta del Este grows up...

Feelings of euphoria and giddy giggling are symptoms of contact with paradise...

One explorer and two natives are captured by this captivating seascape...

In the past, foreigners competed for control of the sea...

In the present, we've gotten better at sharing...

Although no one lives there, one open-air restaurant provides tourists with basic needs--bathrooms, beverages, and, of course, asado! Got a telescope? Or a good viewer on your computer? Our green beach umbrella is between the third and fourth furled sails from the left...

Punta del Este earns its renown--especially if you're rich. however, we preferred the savory lesser known locales like La Paloma which serve a more authentic flavor of Uruguay's hospitality. And, after nearly a month of hardcore travel--despite continuous gratitude for Justo and friends--we are happy to head home...to rest, recoup and plant roots. Hasta luego Punta!


But...
The fully loaded Renault doesn't go far before Justo turns down a spur to show us another amazing site: CasaPueblo. Built by a famous artist, the inspiriation for this sprawling abode was an adobe village--giving graniose meaning to the term townhouse (pueblo + casa).






Inside lie rooms full of smaller yet similarly intriguing work...

Two more enticing towns tease us as we return home--Piriapolis and Atlantida. Being closer to Montevideo, both split the difference in size and character of Punta and La Paloma. We pulled off for pizza and more pictures in playful Piriapolis. Just a couple more places that have dates with our future...

Back in the magic elastic Renault, we studied scenery we were seeing for the first time. Over our two week trip we relentlessly thanked Justo, thinking about all the times he drove us to new sights--one night Javier joked that chauffeurs were all named James. Before I fell asleep against the window I thought about everything Justo did to make our move to Uruguay wonderful: the hotel, our apartment, this vacation together, his friends and all the time and effort and money it probably took. I'd like to think I'd do the same, but I doubt it--although Leandra probably would. As he drove I remember looking at him with his sunglasses, as tired I was, concentrating on the road, knowing that he knew his vacation was over, that he had to return to work and reality, while our adventure was just starting. He glanced at me, giving me his little smile. In that instant, I tried to silently express my deepest gratitude--I don't know if it was enough. Instead, I just said, "Home, James."

Muchas gracias mi hermano.

1 comment:

Javier Mendiondo said...

Hi ADAM!!
All your descriptions are great!!
I knew that coming to Uruguay was a great choice you made!!
I am happy to know that you are having fun here!
By the way, the right name of the main road of Punta del Este is Gorlero: dont´worry, I see that you are learning spanish very fast!
Finally I have to add that calling "James" to Justo was a joke that I told you after having a great time in Pony Pisador Pub in Punta: I deserve the author's rights of that!!!