Futbol, The Second Half: Nacional Vs. Peñarol

With a combined history of over 220 years of competition, there are few rivalries in any sport that match the legacy and lore of Uruguay’s two most popular teams, Peñarol and Nacional.

These two clubs—adding to a long list of amazing things Americans don’t know about Uruguay—have been seminal figures in the global expansion of soccer’s popularity, solidifying Uruguay’s sporting legend around the planet.

Separately--or combined when contributing their top players to the represent the nation--these famed franchises can claim dozens of national, international and world championships.

With multiple Olympic Gold Medals and two World Cups, including the very first, played in Centenario Stadium in 1930, and a second with a comeback victory in 1950 against the highly favored Brazilians, Nacional and Peñarol are known worldwide.

Generations of Uruguayan grandfathers, grandmothers, spouses, sons, and daughters, have argued over their preference and that tradition continues. Add the fact that Nacional was spawned from Peñarol, literally making them paternally linked, you have a rivalry that runs as thick as blood.

On a beautiful cool crisp autumn afternoon in April, we went—along with every member of Montevideo’s media--to the most recent carnal incarnation of this feverish fan infatuation, this celebrated spectator debate, this black and blue, red and yellow and white fight for bragging rights, the most crucial controversial culturally culminating sporting event in Uruguay history: Peñarol versus Nacional.


Javier, with perrenial Peñarol pride, purchased our Tribuna Olympico tickets the day before and we arrived an hour early to get good seats at midfield, between the more radical sparring spectators who prefer the seats behind their home goal!

Estadio Centenario, built to hold 100,000 in 1930 for the first World Cup, has played host to hundreds of sold-out matches over the decades. Javier told us that Argentines, unable to get seats for the final match, scaled the walls with ropes! Even today, fans are chanting outside the stadium, long before the match, and will continue touting their team during and after the game…

Leandra and four horsemen ton patrol to control any apocalypse…

Javier and Leandra reach the entrance, while vendors, spectators, and security scout things out…

One of several things that fans enjoy hurling onto the field are streamers—the most affordable being a used roll of receipts…

As Nacional takes the field, the fans, known as “Bolsos”, produce a gigantic jersey, and 20 tri-colored banners running the length of the stadium. Nacional fans are playing for pride in this match—they are not in the running for the first place finish—but, unlike Peñarol, they are still alive in the international Copa Libertadores tournament. And, they’d like nothing more than to dash the national title hopes of their rival!

Peñarol’s army, the “Carboñeros”, upon the arrival of their squad, go ballistic with a barrage of flares and stares and chants and rants at their enemies in the other end of the field. Fans bring as much gusto as they can muster: bags of newspaper confetti, drums and fireworks, flags and banners, horns and streamers—anything that can how much you love your team! Because Peñarol, needing this vistory to tie for first, still has championship hopes, their black and yellow legions slightly outnumber those in red, white and blue.

Just before the teams line up for the opening kick, the entire stadium erupts in a roar of anticpation and celebration!

Two coal miner minors climb the fence for some full frontal futbol…

Peñarol takes the lead 1-0—after a corner kick is accidentally headed in by a Nacional player--setting off a series of taunts toward the shadowed tri-colored half of Centenario. Players celebrate the customary futbol way, by mobbing the scoring player, but in this case, it’s the lucky corner kicker!

Play resumes, and Nacional, attacking in the friendly direction, has several super shots stopped by the gritty goalie of Peñarol.

Peñarol pushes the pelota (ball) to their strikers, while Leandra keeps and eye on the police…

Caught in the act! Nacional’s desperate airborne keeper can’t stop Peñarol second score, as the ball bursts into the net...

And the “Carboñeros” double their indubitable displays of dominance…

Sitting under Centenarios signature tower, Javier and I join in the black and gold joy…

Just before halftime, Peñarol takes the lead to 3-0, and Javier, beside himself with glee, holds a three over an equally thrilled Leandra…

Fans from both sides chant relentlessly—everyone knows dozens of spirit raising songs. And the “Mirasoles” (sunflowers—another Peñarol nickname), bask in the glory with another unified decibel powered praise…

Leandra shows her approval and knowledge of one of Uruguay’s unspoken common colloquialisms: the “ mustache up”!

But century old rivals never stop, and neither does the Nacional enclave, a little less loud, but flags still wave with abandon…

A whopper of a 2005 windstorm that took out 200 trees in Montevideo, turned Centenarios scoreboard into a window, or for the able, a private skybox seat. Javier says, in his impeccable accented English, “Jes, I think they will fix it before the next World Cup!” We think the world of Javier—so many of our amazing experiences in Uruguay would have been half as wonderful without him, his friends, and his family.

Meanwhile, a 40,000 people wide smile is watching the sun set on the Nacional…

And, in a rivalry that ranges from the bottom of their banners to the top of the scoreboards and every street corner and dinner table between, Peñarol refuses to lose this round…

In the end, players join hands at midfield showing truly good sportsmanship, as the players push pause on the ongoing saga…

As we stretch to leave, neutral pieces of confetti and impartial bleacher seats settle together in peace to rest…

But, the fans don’t miss a beat. The proud, pernicious Peñarol people continue to tease in glee…

And the gals and pals of Nacional respond “in kind”, setting symbolic fires to the streamers that didn’t help their team to victory, a loss that will be burned into their collective memory…

And ours!

Thanks again to Javier, it was just another awesome “mustache up” day in Uruguay--at least for the Peñarol half of the population!

Futbol, The First Half: El Gol

Returning home we faced an unavoidable fact: we need to find work. Leandra surfed some sites and stumbled across something interesting: wanted—soccer commentators, native English speakers only. Two emails, two weeks, and two commentator guides later, we got our first game. Like something from Charlie’s Angels—Agustin, a man we email but never meet, doles out our assignments. Our mission: to give basic game information to odds-makers for live betting in casinos in Asia! And, it meets our primary goal: working while experiencing the culture!

Over the weeks to come we will visit many of Montevideo’s stadiums, including Centenario, home to the very first World Cup--which team Uruguay won in 1930! Inside, we will watch top-notch players and their corresponding assortments of passionate supporters, especially the rabid loyalists of the two most popular teams: Peñarol and Nacional!

Frequently, our new friends would join us, but none more than Javier, who, starting with our first match, often acted as guide, translator, security adviser, ticket broker, chauffeur, futbol historian, game analyst and assistant commentator!


Outside our first fixture, Parque Paladino, officers mingle prior to the arrival of spectators. Although revelry and rivalry sometimes spiral into violence, it is rare, especially with a rigorous police presence.

Fortified ticket booths sell tickets to sections separated according to the team you support. Often home team tickets cost less that the opponents if the visitors are more popular. Being neutral commentators, we just bought the cheapest seats--usually a dollar or two.

Other than Centenario and Parque Central, most club “stadiums” are equivalent to glorified high school fields in America, ringed by about ten rows of bleachers, with a capacity of two or three thousand.


Our first game was between two of the least popular teams, Cerrito and Progresso, at a pitch outside the city, so turnout was understandably low, but it was a beautiful day, perfect for our first work experience.

Here we are, getting paid to watch soccer on a cell phone, relaying the game basics to an odds-adjuster in the Phillipines! It starts with a description of the weather and field, which teams are home and away, who takes the first kick-off, throw-in, corner kick, or yellow and red card. Once the game begins--besides occasionally announcing any changes in game pace, possession percentage, penalty kicks, or substitutions—we simply describe possession and ball position by saying “Home” or “Away” and “Safe”, “Attack” or “Danger”.

By now, Leandra has formed a crush on the police—she likes their shields and sticks and horses. Many times, we found opportunities to photograph them…

FREEZE! Time to announce another contest-- “COPS: Montevideo’s Most Amazing Futbol Photos!” Rules of engagement: Count all the police in this post, and enter your guess in the comments—one caveat: if you can’t clearly identify your suspect, it’s not a cop! Be sure to leave us a way to contact you in case you win, or just email us using our info under our blog title. Grand Prize: two free tickets to a game in Centenario Stadium!


One week later, Leandra is calling her first contest, coincidentally, back at Parque Paladino on another gorgeous day: “Home safe”, “Home Attack”, “Home Danger!”, “Home Goal! Home Goal!”, “Home 1, Away 0!” she repeats as the crowd goes crazy!

Progresso and Bella Vista vie for victory below a blue sky buffered by a flaming refinery stack.

Referees take a lot of verbal abuse during the games, but physical abuse is often avoided with a security escort from the field.

The game at Parque Palermo between Rampla Juniors and Central Español is packed with action.

Player form the wall to thwart a free kick attempt—one that would expertly curl into the corner over an outstretched goalie’s arms…

The Wanderers battle Bella Vista at Parque Saroldi.

Putting some spin on a hopeful corner kick couldn’t help the home team score this time.

Leandra just loves the cops…she thinks they’re “cute”

But, stopping a penalty kick…

But, stopping a penalty kick…

Part of a goalie’s job…

And happiest moment for the home team and the nearby ball boy who gets in on the celebration…


Meanwhile, an ejected player, dejected and frustrated, rifles angry replies to the ref that issued the red card…

Peñarol, one of Uruguay’s two most popular teams, is nicknamed the “Carboñeros” for the working class coal miners of their home barrio. With a history disputed by their rival, Peñarol claims to be Montevideo’s oldest team, originating in 1891 and wearing the railroad warning sign colors of black and yellow. The team has won 3 world chamipionships.

Outside their home, estadio Franzini, a mounted police officer prepares for the rowdy crowd.

Javier, one of many loyal legions, has a season pass and loves being among the ravenous fans…


The green clad Peñarol goalie, who suffered a broken nose moments later, finds himself caught between Defensor strikers and the purple pandemonium of their fans…
Wearing the requisite gear, we watch a wonderful 3-2 game, that Peñarol wins despite having a player red-carded just after halftime…


After the game, officers make themselves obvious and dissuade disputes at the exits between the elated and frustrated spectators…

A few weeks later Peñarol fans explode after a goal in Centenario

A conflicted fan combines Miramar and Peñarol colors.

Drums beating, endless chanting, flags waving, confetti flying, flares glowing and fireworks blowing up are just a few of the ways fans display their support…

Looking to the upper left, notice the difference between the packed Peñarol stands and the equally empty opponents designated seats.

Centenario was the home of the first FIFA World Cup. In the 1920’s Uruguay was a dominant international futbol powerhouse, taking the gold medal in consecutive Olympics in 1924 and 1928, which earned it the location for what is now the biggest sport event on the planet.


With an original capacity of 100,000, the stadium is a famous fixture in the annals of futbol history. After its initial international championship in 1930, Uruguay won it’s second in 1950 in Brazil.
Players like Pelé and Maradona have competed here and battled Uruguay’s famous home field advantage. For example, in 20 appearances, Brazil’s perpetually top ranked national team has only won twice in Centenario.

The Copa Libertadores de América is an international tournament held between countries of the western hemisphere. In a unifying moment for Uruguay, Peñarol joins their bitter national rivals of Nacional, along with fans from all the teams, to cheer for Defensor Sporting in a bid to qualify for the semi-finals. Newlyweds Eduardo and Natali smile with glee as Javier gives the camera the “mustache up” sign, a popular piece of Latin American body language.

Passing off the camera, we pose with Juan Pablo, who displays another wordless expression of excitement: the “look at my shirt” celebration that fans and players alike enjoy after a goal.

Even a pair of pals freelancing for a few pesos for photo ops with Mickey and Minnie turn out for the big game. Although Uruguay swallowed the bitter pill of pride in this bout , Defensor would qualify for the next round in the Liberty Cup of the Americas.


With more international championships than any other soccer team on earth, 21, including 3 world championships, Nacional is Uruguay’s most storied team and has a following to match it’s black and gold rival. Their nickname, “Bolsos”, originates from the Spanish word for pocket, which was a trademark of their original uniforms. They play in Parque Central, Uruguay’s oldest (1900) and second largest stadium (30,000).


Alejandro and Marcel, loyal Nacional fans, joined me at Jardines de Hipodromo for a match against Cerrito—a team with no home field and a small fan following.
Looking super, Marcel shows his true blue, red and white colors.

Just like their black and yellow rivals, Nacional fans turn out in droves—pounding and pumping, bouncing, berating the referees, and blowing up incendiaries.

Just like their black and yellow rivals, Nacional fans turn out in droves—pounding and pumping, bouncing, berating the referees, and blowing up incendiaries.

As Nacional closes out another victory, the tri-colored sunset seems to join in the celebration.

Outside, cops on “caballos” lurk like crocodiles, and we grab a shot for you-know-who.

A week later, Nacional played a Copa Libertadores match on their home pitch in Parque Central—an internationally televised contest with Argentina, whose fans showed a lack of hospitality and respect for Uruguay in the first game in Buenos Aires. So, wanting retaliation, a united national contingent came with a frenzied level of energy.


The kick-off was delayed by a toilet paper attack, and the second half couldn’t start until the ref scolded the fired up fans for a barrage of bottles on the opposing goalie.

Although we arrived an hour early, Marcel, Alejandro and I were fortunate just being squashed into our seats on the stairwell—my commentatry was nothing more than one-way yelling into the cell phone, as the crowd incessantly cheered and chanted—including before and after the game, during deadballs, and throughout halftime.
The heated rivalry almost broke into a two team brawl as tensions flared in the 80th minute. In the end, Nacional’s 3-0 victory sparked celebrations and explosions of joy in the form of fireworks smuggled in by the hopeful, adoring and bold fans. And, we love every minute of it.

Soon, we will attend Uruguay's most historic and euphoric match, played by two teams with international renown and respect, with over a century of seething rivalry, playing in the legendary stadium of Centenario, when Peñarol kicks off another epic battle with Nacional!!!