Over the weeks to come we will visit many of Montevideo’s stadiums, including Centenario, home to the very first World Cup--which team Uruguay won in 1930! Inside, we will watch top-notch players and their corresponding assortments of passionate supporters, especially the rabid loyalists of the two most popular teams: Peñarol and Nacional!
Frequently, our new friends would join us, but none more than Javier, who, starting with our first match, often acted as guide, translator, security adviser, ticket broker, chauffeur, futbol historian, game analyst and assistant commentator!
Outside our first fixture, Parque Paladino, officers mingle prior to the arrival of spectators. Although revelry and rivalry sometimes spiral into violence, it is rare, especially with a rigorous police presence.
Fortified ticket booths sell tickets to sections separated according to the team you support. Often home team tickets cost less that the opponents if the visitors are more popular. Being neutral commentators, we just bought the cheapest seats--usually a dollar or two.
Other than Centenario and Parque Central, most club “stadiums” are equivalent to glorified high school fields in America, ringed by about ten rows of bleachers, with a capacity of two or three thousand.
Our first game was between two of the least popular teams, Cerrito and Progresso, at a pitch outside the city, so turnout was understandably low, but it was a beautiful day, perfect for our first work experience.
Here we are, getting paid to watch soccer on a cell phone, relaying the game basics to an odds-adjuster in the Phillipines! It starts with a description of the weather and field, which teams are home and away, who takes the first kick-off, throw-in, corner kick, or yellow and red card. Once the game begins--besides occasionally announcing any changes in game pace, possession percentage, penalty kicks, or substitutions—we simply describe possession and ball position by saying “Home” or “Away” and “Safe”, “Attack” or “Danger”.
By now, Leandra has formed a crush on the police—she likes their shields and sticks and horses. Many times, we found opportunities to photograph them…
FREEZE! Time to announce another contest-- “COPS: Montevideo’s Most Amazing Futbol Photos!” Rules of engagement: Count all the police in this post, and enter your guess in the comments—one caveat: if you can’t clearly identify your suspect, it’s not a cop! Be sure to leave us a way to contact you in case you win, or just email us using our info under our blog title. Grand Prize: two free tickets to a game in Centenario Stadium!
One week later, Leandra is calling her first contest, coincidentally, back at Parque Paladino on another gorgeous day: “Home safe”, “Home Attack”, “Home Danger!”, “Home Goal! Home Goal!”, “Home 1, Away 0!” she repeats as the crowd goes crazy!
Progresso and Bella Vista vie for victory below a blue sky buffered by a flaming refinery stack.
Referees take a lot of verbal abuse during the games, but physical abuse is often avoided with a security escort from the field.
The game at Parque Palermo between Rampla Juniors and Central Español is packed with action.
Player form the wall to thwart a free kick attempt—one that would expertly curl into the corner over an outstretched goalie’s arms…
The Wanderers battle Bella Vista at Parque Saroldi.
Putting some spin on a hopeful corner kick couldn’t help the home team score this time.
Leandra just loves the cops…she thinks they’re “cute”
But, stopping a penalty kick…
But, stopping a penalty kick…
Part of a goalie’s job…
And happiest moment for the home team and the nearby ball boy who gets in on the celebration…
Meanwhile, an ejected player, dejected and frustrated, rifles angry replies to the ref that issued the red card…
Peñarol, one of Uruguay’s two most popular teams, is nicknamed the “Carboñeros” for the working class coal miners of their home barrio. With a history disputed by their rival, Peñarol claims to be Montevideo’s oldest team, originating in 1891 and wearing the railroad warning sign colors of black and yellow. The team has won 3 world chamipionships.
Outside their home, estadio Franzini, a mounted police officer prepares for the rowdy crowd.
Javier, one of many loyal legions, has a season pass and loves being among the ravenous fans…
The green clad Peñarol goalie, who suffered a broken nose moments later, finds himself caught between Defensor strikers and the purple pandemonium of their fans…
Wearing the requisite gear, we watch a wonderful 3-2 game, that Peñarol wins despite having a player red-carded just after halftime…
After the game, officers make themselves obvious and dissuade disputes at the exits between the elated and frustrated spectators…
A few weeks later Peñarol fans explode after a goal in Centenario
A conflicted fan combines Miramar and Peñarol colors.
Drums beating, endless chanting, flags waving, confetti flying, flares glowing and fireworks blowing up are just a few of the ways fans display their support…
Looking to the upper left, notice the difference between the packed Peñarol stands and the equally empty opponents designated seats.
Centenario was the home of the first FIFA World Cup. In the 1920’s Uruguay was a dominant international futbol powerhouse, taking the gold medal in consecutive Olympics in 1924 and 1928, which earned it the location for what is now the biggest sport event on the planet.
With an original capacity of 100,000, the stadium is a famous fixture in the annals of futbol history. After its initial international championship in 1930, Uruguay won it’s second in 1950 in Brazil.
Players like Pelé and Maradona have competed here and battled Uruguay’s famous home field advantage. For example, in 20 appearances, Brazil’s perpetually top ranked national team has only won twice in Centenario.
The Copa Libertadores de América is an international tournament held between countries of the western hemisphere. In a unifying moment for Uruguay, Peñarol joins their bitter national rivals of Nacional, along with fans from all the teams, to cheer for Defensor Sporting in a bid to qualify for the semi-finals. Newlyweds Eduardo and Natali smile with glee as Javier gives the camera the “mustache up” sign, a popular piece of Latin American body language.
Passing off the camera, we pose with Juan Pablo, who displays another wordless expression of excitement: the “look at my shirt” celebration that fans and players alike enjoy after a goal.
Even a pair of pals freelancing for a few pesos for photo ops with Mickey and Minnie turn out for the big game. Although Uruguay swallowed the bitter pill of pride in this bout , Defensor would qualify for the next round in the Liberty Cup of the Americas.
With more international championships than any other soccer team on earth, 21, including 3 world championships, Nacional is Uruguay’s most storied team and has a following to match it’s black and gold rival. Their nickname, “Bolsos”, originates from the Spanish word for pocket, which was a trademark of their original uniforms. They play in Parque Central, Uruguay’s oldest (1900) and second largest stadium (30,000).
Alejandro and Marcel, loyal Nacional fans, joined me at Jardines de Hipodromo for a match against Cerrito—a team with no home field and a small fan following.
Looking super, Marcel shows his true blue, red and white colors.
Just like their black and yellow rivals, Nacional fans turn out in droves—pounding and pumping, bouncing, berating the referees, and blowing up incendiaries.
Just like their black and yellow rivals, Nacional fans turn out in droves—pounding and pumping, bouncing, berating the referees, and blowing up incendiaries.
As Nacional closes out another victory, the tri-colored sunset seems to join in the celebration.
Outside, cops on “caballos” lurk like crocodiles, and we grab a shot for you-know-who.
A week later, Nacional played a Copa Libertadores match on their home pitch in Parque Central—an internationally televised contest with Argentina, whose fans showed a lack of hospitality and respect for Uruguay in the first game in Buenos Aires. So, wanting retaliation, a united national contingent came with a frenzied level of energy.
The kick-off was delayed by a toilet paper attack, and the second half couldn’t start until the ref scolded the fired up fans for a barrage of bottles on the opposing goalie.
Although we arrived an hour early, Marcel, Alejandro and I were fortunate just being squashed into our seats on the stairwell—my commentatry was nothing more than one-way yelling into the cell phone, as the crowd incessantly cheered and chanted—including before and after the game, during deadballs, and throughout halftime.
The heated rivalry almost broke into a two team brawl as tensions flared in the 80th minute. In the end, Nacional’s 3-0 victory sparked celebrations and explosions of joy in the form of fireworks smuggled in by the hopeful, adoring and bold fans. And, we love every minute of it.
Soon, we will attend Uruguay's most historic and euphoric match, played by two teams with international renown and respect, with over a century of seething rivalry, playing in the legendary stadium of Centenario, when Peñarol kicks off another epic battle with Nacional!!!
1 comment:
I count 40 cops, not counting a few miscellaneous body parts in some photos.
fun post!
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