Arequipa Going And Going And Going...

***Adam's Hidden Contest Super Challenge: A secret question is hidden somewhere in this entry...find the clues, answer the question, and put your solution in the comments or email it to me! First Place gets: a complimentary pizza at Tranquilo Bar, cheese only! Or, if you can't make it to Montevideo, we will send you an autographed picture of us, soon to be a collector's item! Plus, you will join our contest winner's hall of fame and earn a place in infamy on our blog!***The next day's events were prescribed by a tour package purchased in Paracas: after arriving to our Arequipa hostel and ceremonially settling into our matrimonial room, Sunday's schedule was to rapidly shoot through the city's cultural and colonial treasures, before embarking on an afternoon rafting the nearby Rio Chili. From here, we will begin our steady climb into less and less oxygen. But, we should acclimate easily, moving progressively higher until we reach Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca. However, do I feel a cold coming on?...

Luck followed us as we left Pisco, and we snuggled into our front-row upper-floor seats on our double-decker bus--the ones with the best view, Peru before us on a see-through movie screen. A three-quarter moon crept higher, the bus got quieter, and we slept, as the mysterious lines of Nasca, etched by an ancient culture in the arid stony desert, passed in the night. These recently gleaned giant geoglyphs, appreciable only from the air (...or outer space?), are increasingly popular with tourists--but the cost and nausea of a small plane charter precluded perusing the unsolved mystery until "next time"...
We woke just before dawn. The ocean was gone, and we were on a winding rocky road, up, up, up, ascending into the infamous initial altitudes of Peru. Reaching the lower Andean plateaus, the sun rose over the sleeping volcanoes that surround our still distant destination...

A tunnel approached. On the rock, the legendary name of an ancient landmark continues to show its influence on local life...
Arequipa, Peru's second largest city (860,000), is a UNESCO site that was technically founded by Spain in 1540, although aboriginal cultures have lived here for many millenniums. Rio Chili splits La Ciudad Blanca, "the white city", so named for its streets and structures of pale sillar stone and ash, while volcanoes are not far behind...
In a country that often overlooks its downtrodden own while devoting attention to globetrotting guests, Arequipa represents the best of Peru, where progressive thought often pushes for national reforms and two formerly conflicting cultures now co-exist. And, much like its physical location, halfway above Lima and below Cusco, and mid-route between, this city is a perfect mixture of Peru's past and future.
El Misti, 5,822 meters (19,101 feet), is the envy of every stratvolcano, presiding over its jurisdiction like a temperamental judge constantly threatens to slam the gavel and send earthquaking shockwaves across the valley. It's supported by a sequestered supreme court of twenty more fire-breathers and smoke-belchers. Meanwhile, Arequipa, sitting at 2,380 meters (7740 feet), squirms in the witness chair.
Surpisingly, its Chachani, Quechan for "skirt", that holds the highest chair at 6,057 meters (19,872 ft) and has a feminine spirit in mountain legends. For some hometown perspective, Mt. Hood, the luminary peak looming over Portland, Oregon, is 3,429 meters (11,249 feet).
Just two blocks behind Leandra is a cultural museum, and home to Juanita, the Ice Maiden, a teenage Incan mummy found in 1995 frozen in the snow-capped peak of nearby Mt. Ampato. We did not have time to see her in person, but her amazing preservation and history was featured in National Geographic. The change in altitude was already becoming noticeable as we walked the sloping streets.
We wandered past basilicas, parks, plazas and artisan markets while summits kept peeking in on us.
A dog barked at passersby from his perch above a church...
A little further on, we checked out checking in to another hostel highly recommended for its views--we intentionally kept some wiggle room in our travel plans and thought we would return to Arequipa after a excursion to Chivay and Colca Canyon. We never did make it back, but at least we got this great view of the cathedral steeples. To the right, is the town's primary attraction, Santa Catalina Monestary...click the comics to look inside with us!


Soon after, we walked to the Plaza de Armas, Arequipa's central square. It was a gorgeous day with a tad of cummulus haze mixed with a bright blaze of sun. It was Dia de Madre--Mother's Day, 2007--one of the few holidays that is generally celebrated in all cultures.
People were bustling every which way, in pairs and pods, young relatives helping the old. We decided to peer past the cathedral's sillar pillars.
Catholic saints and laymen alike were praying together in the pews, with many children and men showing subtle reverence for their mothers and wives.
Outside again, the plaza was bubbling with life--cane carrying elders filling a bench, children playing chase with the pigeons, cultural displays of dance and drums and music in every niche, and everywhere, kin dressed in their Sunday best, coming closer together for a photo.
Loving others and daughters connected by blood but decades apart are the focus of family photos all around the town square.
Matrilineal members spanning four generations congregate in celebration.
Reminiscent of the grainy cyanotype days, smiles that normally grace the friendly Peruvian face seemed to disappear when it was time pose. After all, taking a picture on a special day is serious business...
Dress and dance is on display for tourists and locals alike on Dia de Madre. Unlike most of the more famous tourist towns--where decked-out or llama-toting tip-seekers expect payment to pose--this was an excellent opportunity to sneak some authentic shots.

After a morning of high speed sight-seeing, we were ready to take a seat, rest our feet, and test out some local meat. I was prepared to try 'cuy'--a delicacy generally unknown outside of Peru--but I opted for an alpaca steak and potato stew. Alpacas have always been raised for their meat as well as wool, and have a lean red flavor similar, but perhaps a bit better to beef. Despite also having popular fur for thread, llamas were historically bred to be pack animals, carrying heavy loads, which strengthened their muscles into cuts that proved chewy, sinewy and less delectable. Although, in recent years, llama has been making the menu as meat quality improves for the palette while it is less used as a beast of burden. My lunch was solid--especially supported by an Arequipeña cerveza, another wonderful local lager--but Leandra's seemingly practical choice of pollo (chicken) was beyond compare. We shared snippits and nibbles--well, Leandra did anyway--and then slow-walked back to the hostel via another visit through the Plaza de Armas. Leandra, craving a large latte, gently inquired a local shop about the possibilities of a 'grande cafe con leche' to go. After an enthusiastic yes, the waitress disappeared along with several minutes, before re-appearing with, well, basically a bucket of delicious espresso and creamy foam! We enjoyed multiple cups and even more stares all the way home.

After a very brief rest in our double room, the desk rang, and said our afternoon excursion shuttle was ready. Now, some serious fun was about to begin.
Peru is home to some of the most hardcore whitewater in the world. For example, Rio Colca rips through Colca Canyon, one of the deepest canyons on earth, 10,725 ft (3,269 m)--more than twice the depth of the Grand Canyon--and has miles of technical and potentially deadly class IV and V+ liquid rollercoasters that can only be exited days downstream from your entry. Therefore, these runs are exclusive to the brave, rich and/or experienced. Trips can cost thousands and last weeks. However, there is a section of Rio Chili that you can raft is just outside the city. It's a small but steep river, a creek really, within quick and easy access from Arequipa with a rocky class II- to III+ continous flow, and one class IV+ waiting below--a 5 meter (15 foot) drop into a narrow bedrock canyon; a waterfall really. Big? Yes. Technical? No. Deep? Yes. Dangerous? No and yes--the drop ends in a deep smooth pool so if you do pop out, you'll probably won't knock your noggin and a rescue should be straightforward. It was definitely scarier scouting it out, and dropping in, than looking back on such a fun big splash! And, we were the only tourists to sign up that day, so we had the pleasure of a ship to ourselves along with our guide, Sergio. This would be our third river run in South America, and one surrounded by volcanoes and pre-Incan terraces. Plus, there was no pro photographer following along, so I tied the Olympus to my wrist, and snapped away!
Click the comic to get on board!
Despite a chill and a growing itch in the throat, the thrill of this trip is still apparent. And, somewhere back in those mountains, hides Chivay, Colca Canyon, and, eventually Cusco.
We ran into rush hour on our way home.
We cleaned up and headed back out to explore some more and find some food and drink.
Sunsets were coming earlier--it's now mid-May with winter not far away--although still stunning and colorful from a rooftop bar overlooking the central square where the original gate of the Spanish fort connects with the cathedral...
As dusk thrust in, lamposts lit up like Christmas lights as the cool highland air quickly rushed under the rising drafts of day. Mother's Day observers were still mingled with international visitors.
A pan-flute powered band played contemporary covers with an Andean flavor. Musically, it was amazing watching performers simultaneously playing two or three instruments.
We wandered more alleys before dallying into a swanky eatery. We splurged on red wine, cheese and ostrich fondue, fresh green salads and a sextet of herb sauces. As our skewered food dripped in excess into the candle-heated dip, we'd spin the morsels and blow off the steam, saying excited inquisitive things that started with words like "How about when...", "Wasn't that...", "What should we...", and "Tomorrow let's..."