C Is For Cuy, That's Good Enough For Me...

When the notorious Spanish conquistador, Francisco Pizarro, discovered Cusco it was the capital of the Inca Empire. At 3500 meters (11,500 feet) the city is the spiritual and physical portal to Machu Picchu via the Sacred valley's Rio Urubamba, Inca Trail and the Peru Rail choo-choo. Currently the country's 10th largest with 320,000 residents, Cusco's population has tripled in twenty years, and will quickly climb the ranks thanks to booming tourism and Machu Picchu's recent induction as one of the Seven Modern World Wonders. Supposedly shaped like a puma, the city's Inca architecture hides under layers of colonialism, often surviving earthquakes that have required toppled churches to be rebuilt. But symbols of the past , like the multi-colored flag of the Inca and Quechua culture, proudly live on...

We parked in the bus terminal under the foggy darkness of predawn. Cold and groggy from a frigid nocturnal ride, we taxied to Loki Hostel, hoping that we still had a reservation. Thanks to the Bolivian blockade, we were half a day late...Fortune followed the Bolivian folly--the Loki owners were obviously familiar with the unpredictable rhythms of backpackers--and our private double room was waiting for us. We quickly snuggled in for two hours sleep in an actual bed...

Loki Hostel is a renowned recent phenomenon. Founded by four backpackers, the 450 year old building has been transformed into a budget traveler's dream: affordable adequate rooms, awesome services, and a college campus atmosphere. In fact, if there's any drawback, it's that the fun never stops--late teeners, twentysomethingers and wannabeyoungers party at the bar until last call at 6 am every night; 15 minutes after the bar crew cruises, some lovely local ladies open back up for bountiful breakfasts. Luckily, we were able to reserve our room for two nights...

Although we were feeling stronger, no food was more memorable and mouth-watering than the meal we ate that morning. Not only did we sit staring at a silent sunrise over the misty roofs of Cusco with steaming tea and coffee, but we both ordered the "full breakfast" which was obviously intended to give hardcore hikers all the fuel they would need to conquer any high-altitude outdoor excursion: rich slices of home-baked bread, eggs fresh from the farm, thick slabs of organic bacon, mugs of sweet orange nectar, and steak sized slices of tomato. It's hard to describe how nourishing it was, but that meal marked the moment that we recovered from our colds...
Leandra and I both claim it was the best breakfast we've ever had. Savoring every morsel with a moan, we wondered about the valley before us--El Valle Sagrado de los Incas--that disappeared in the neon haze...
Moments later, we were striding down the steep street to meet our bus and tour guide. At the bottom of the stairs, we met Stacy, a solo traveler that buddied up with us...
"Uh-oh." As we picked up other passengers another parade of protesters passed by. Leandra and I gave them the evil eye. Apparently, Peru and Bolivia have some common cultural traditions, but this time it didn't affect our plans. Whew!

Soon, we were winding through the hills, our guide pointing out lesser ruins to the left and right, explaining the mythic history of the Sacred Valley, and previewing our tour today: the artisan market of Pisac, the fortress of Ollantaytambo, lunch and traditional life along the Urubamba River, and the town and temples of Chinchero...
And, before we knew it, we were there, posing at a pullout over the river. According to Inca cosmology, the Willcamayu (now known as Rio Urubamba), connects Cusco and Machu Pichu like an mighty anaconda, but also as an earthbound version of the Milky Way...
Then, we pulled into the popular pueblo of Pisac and scoped its marvelous market for colorful curios. Leandra scooped up some sparkling pink and green polished stones and a banded silver necklace...
In the food court we found fresh oranges and some bottled water to take on our tour. Unlike most of our journey, we are nearer to forests and fertile farmland than anywhere before, surrounded by trees and greenery that was rare in other parts of Peru and Bolivia...
Back on the bus, our guide points out some switchbacks of the Inca Trail. Following the footpath to Machu Picchu is a highly recommended experience, but the short version takes two days, the longer way takes four, physical fitness is a necessity, reservations are required well in advance as unguided tours are prohibited, and it costs several hundred dollars per person. In other words, we opted for the Inca Train...

But, eventually we would experience some of the Camino del Inca...
Entering Ollantaytambo, the last town before Auguas Calientes and Machu Picchu, we were shown an Inca canal solidified in perfectly cut stones. Many of the ancient irrigation systems and terraces are still fully functional...
Entering the fortress ruins, we stood on its lower terraces as the town sat serenely below one of the most impressive ruins in the valley...

To the left are the Baños de la Ñusta or Baths of the Princess, where the Incas performed ritual bathing ceremonies. Our guide showed us how the touch of a finger could effectively turn the stream of water on or off--making it run down the wall instead of shooting through the air. Notice the intricately accurate masonry--still in tact despite the lack of mortar. In the lower fountain, find the finely carved geometric lines that form a pyramid shape.
This is one point on the Chakana, or Inca Cross, which represents the southern cross. The three tiers symbolize the lower world and anaconda, this world and the puma, and the higher world and the condor. When four are joined in a cross, the corners represent twelve 30 day months, and the four points represent the cardinal directions which also correspond with quadrants of the Inca Empire and their associated colors of red, blue, yellow and green.
I bought a necklace for a souvenir--I'm supposed to soak it in salt water every full moon to restore its energy giving powers--which I did. And you know what? Life's been great!

Behind the baths is an impressive mountain with several structures etched into the stone. Much conjecture has come and gone concerning these obviously important creations--today it's agreed that they were granaries. But one carving is claimed by locals to be an ancient Incan--with a rigid face and beard, carrying a heaven burden through the valley...
From the left, you can see a small diagonal granary, the face, a large terraced granary, and finally a complex granary to the far right...
Archeologists are currently investigating the large one...
According to our guide, the "face" to the left shows the physical strength and European features of Inca ancestors, and apparently lead to the misinterpretation that the Spaniards, in their shiny metal suits and dark beards, were gods returning to the sacred land...
Hiking 200 steps higher we reach some of the most impressive constructions. Behind Leandra, people are examining the Temple of Ten Niches before stepping through an amazing arch door. Above Leandra, the Temple of the Sun sits with its six precisely-fitted pink granite slabs sit, some of the relief carvings still recognizable...

Finally, our group visits the quarry where work virtually halted one day when the Inca finally succumbed to the Spanish invasion, leaving a perfect opportunity for observing Inca masonry methods. To the left is one of the watertight walls that modern architects marvel at--it was one of the best examples we saw. Stones resisted seismic activity due to their interlocking niches and trapezoidal design--only the face of the stones actually touch while the unseen sides are tapered.
To the right, one side of a nearly finished block is hewn so smooth that after 500 years, dirt and brown mosses still cannot find a foothold. I literally spooked when I felt it with my fingertips--it was like glass!

Although this fortress is famous for successfully repelling the Spanish advance, the original purpose was to defend the Inca Empire against the Antis--indigenous Peruvians. It's ceremonial baths, agricultural terraces, astronomical observatory also indicate it functioned as a spiritual and scientific center...
This amazing architectural achievement was created during the rule of Pachacutec--the Inca who united the kingdom. But, the credit goes to Ollantay, the legendary general who rose from the peasantry, questing for greatness. Despite his accomplishments and revered following, his final step toward nobility was thwarted by a denial to marry princess Cusi Coyllor due to his humble origins. Sadly, Ollantay led a failed rebellion against Pachacutec and was imprisoned...

We boarded the bus, backtracking along the river...
Stopping for lunch, we noticed that everyday life still occurs in the Sacred Valley. Children are playing futbol during recess...
An elder rests on a bench while landscapers and surveyors measure and remake a neighboring garden...After lunch we visited a small farm for a lesson on Quechua cuisine and traditions...
In the "Inca Bar" we are introduced to "chicha", a traditional Inca drink made from maize. It's mildly alcoholic and sometimes mixed with strawberries...
Before chugging the whole mug, our guide performed a prayer ritual--it was fascinating and complex, involving all levels of life and spilling lots of chicha to show appreciation and to share with the gods...
We chose to sample the strawberry chicha...
Next door to the "Inca Bar" was the "Inca Barn" where a herd of "cuy" hurriedly scurried nowhere or stood staring stupidly. Known in western culture as guinea pigs despite being neither pig nor from Guinea, cuy are a native Andean species of rodent that were first domesticated over 7000 years ago. No longer found in the wild, cuy remain a common food source in Peru, and are used by folk doctors to diagnose and cure diseases like jaundice, rheumatism, arthritis, and typhus. Simply rub a cuy (preferably a black one) on the sick person--you can check the effectiveness of the cure by cutting the cuy open and reading its entrails...

Another Andes tradition is a game called "Sapo", the Spanish word for "frog". The object is to throw six coins into the golden frog's mouth, or one of several lesser valued targets. It is thought that this game originated around Lake Titicaca where Inca royals would attempt to win the attention of magic frogs. If the frog ate the coin, a wish would be granted before the frog turned to gold.

So, with international bragging rights on the line, several of us had a go at the golden frog game. Me and my partner tied for third in the mixed doubles. Somehow, Belgium won the men's singles--he plunked one right in Kermit's mouth.
It's a lot like darts, although it takes a lot more luck and much less math--you just open the drawer after your six throws and count your coins: 500, 1000, 2000 for the side holes or 5000 for the frog mouth!

Our next stop along the river was at a brick making yard. Leandra was the first to volunteer when the guide asked if anyone wanted to try. Using all of her crafting skills and mastery of ceramics, Leandra packed, pressed and patted out a perfect Inca adobe brick and received all due applause from the awestruck audience. And, right now, that autographed block is somewhere in the walls of some lucky Sacred Valley structure...


After a slow meandering climb up the valley walls, we arrived at our final stop just as the sun set across the distant peaks. The village of Chinchero spies over the Urubamba valley from 3800 meters (12,500 feet). Hiking up we found a courtyard with a perimeter of vendors whose wares were spread out on blankets, and behind them, ten door-sized nooks where ancient sacrifices and offerings were placed. On top of the Inca temple foundations, the Spanish built a church--a simple but oppressive gesture...

Walking into the church, where photos are forbidden, we found walls covered in faded frescoes painted by a former Chinchero artist. After wandering a few more minutes, it was time to return to Cusco. On the bus, a musician got on, selling some CD's of his pan flute band and offering free shots of a delicious liqueur made from anis, another Andean specialty. We bought his music and a bottle of the licorice spirit--apparently, its tradition to drink it after eating cuy...

We returned to Cusco under dark of night, thanked our guide and stepped out into the light of the Plaza de Armas...
La Catedral was completed in 1669--inside a Peruvian portrait of the Last Supper shows the apostles enjoying chicha and cuy...
While sitting in front of another town square landmark, Templo de la Compañia de Jesus--which was rebuilt after being all but demolished by the 1650 earthquake--we invited Stacy to join us for dinner. We began asking locals about the best restaurant in town, and some police officers recommended El Truco, two blocks away on Plaza Regocijo...
Upon sitting, a napkin clad waiter asked where we came from--we said Uruguay. After some skeptical looks, we added the United States, and he smiled, soon returning with the appropriate flags to decorate our table. We raised our glasses of red wine...
Across the colonial styled restaurant, another show of dance and pan flute based music was impressing a group of Asian tourists, as we ordered dinner. Leandra ordered beef, while Stacy and I felt like trying something unusual, something cultural, a culinary delicacy. "I think I'll try the roast guinea pig," I said. Smiling sideways,"Mmmmm, that's sounds yummy! Make that two cuy!" said Stacy. Leandra grimmaced...
See, it's not that bad! It's a lot like chicken, but a little bit leaner and chewier. Of course, some of the bones and muscles weren't where a life long fowl eater might expect them to be, but basically it was fairly easy to eat. The flavor? Well, it didn't strike me as mouth-watering but certainly wasn't bad. It was surprising that such a nice restaurant wouldn't have a more impressive recipe for roast cuy--it could have used some more spices or barbecue sauce or something...

The coolest part though, was how--before they cut and quartered it into nice normal looking pieces-- they brought it out in tact so we could take pictures to impress our squeamish western multi-culturally-challenged friends who insult other societies with their sensitive stomachs, disgusted expressions and snobby carnivore noses in the air! (I guess if you're a vegetarian, a guinea pig sympathizer, or it's against your religion than I understand...but if not...wimp!)
I like the way the former feet are propped up on potatoes, the frizzled ears, the menacing eyes at the moment of death, and, especially, I like the little white teeth! I didn't know a cuy could look so scary!...which, just made it easier to eat.

After an a couple shots of the local liqueur, we said so long to Stacy, and walked back to the hostel--me giggling with my toothpick, Leandra wanting to gag. Tomorrow morning, we'd take the train to Aguas Calientes...