Sunday, January 6, 2008

Three Things That Rock...

The first week of our adventure would soon end after another twenty-four hour ride on our luxurious bus, driven by Ricardo and Fabiano. Leandra posed with them before we all pulled out of Dom Pedro and bid adieu to Foz de Iguazu and Brazil...Fortunately, today's trek would include two major stops to stretch our legs and see some other points of interest...

Thing #1: We stopped at Minas de Wanda. It's
a mine and where precious stones and gems are on display. We spent thirty minutes browsing the colorful cuts and crystals...


Soon, we were back aboard and barreling south. It was Thanksgiving. Leandra brought two paper turkeys from Portland made by our nieces or "sobrinas", Michaela and Emily. So, we thought of friends, family, our good fortune, and caught the moment in a photo...
Meanwhile, Mariam created a festive atmosphere among the passengers with drinks, snacks, games, and music. Everyone enjoyed passing the hours, laughing and chatting, like kids returning from summer camp...

But, we weren't done yet. We were traveling through the vast Misiones region in Argentina, where a common chapter in history crosses the borders into eastern Paraguay, southern Brazil and northwestern Uruguay...

In 1534, during the Age of the Renaissance and Reformation, when Europeans were expanding physically, spiritually, and mentally, six Spanish, French, and Portugese students in Paris, lead by Ignacio of Loyola, formed the Company of Jesus, a Catholic group now known as the Jesuits. They took vows of poverty, chastity and fealty to the Pope, pledging to care for and convert followers.

Over the next two centuries, under the Pope's direction, while Portugal and Spain fought for economic control of the burgeoning New World, the Jesuits successfully penetrated the jungles around Rio
Paraná, converting native Guaranis, and building increasingly productive missions, also called "reductions". In exchange for tribute to the dueling empires, Jesuits were allowed to control the region, effectively protecting the natives from the ravages of slave hunters bent on providing labor for other colonial endeavors. Many converts became highly educated and skilled, as evidenced in their art and architecture and written records. The Jesuits were so successful, that in 1756, Spain and Portugal, feeling threatened by Jesuit influence and independence, razed the missions to ruins and expelled the Jesuits from South America...

Thing #2: In early afternoon we arrived in San Ignacio--named for the beatified founder of the Company of Jesus--to see the Ruinas JesuĂ­ticas. Many of you have seen some of this living legacy in the celebrated movie, "The Mission", from 1986, starring Robert De Niro, Jeremy Irons and Liam Neeson...

Our visit started in the museum next door to the actual ruins...
An artists recreation and reduction of the original reduction...

After briefly reading through the indoor displays of artifacts and history, we followed the group outside for a guided tour. But, the tour was in Spanish, and instead of patiently practicing our improving interpretive skills, we decided to sneak off and snake through the ruins on our own...
You can still imagine the stain glass, huge heavy carved wood doors, the bell ringing, and the monks beckoning your entry through the main entrance to the central church...
Closer inspection reveals amazing craftsmanship, mostly created by the native converts. It is known as Guarani baroque...
A broken Jesuit insignia--the "IHS" are the first three letters of Jesus in Greek...
Strong timbers still support several archways...
Others have more elegant engraved entries...


It was easy to see the faded glory among the embattled and neglected rocks. It reminded me of Machu Picchu--not in scale or culture--but just as an impressive display of what mankind can create when they are united and driven by religious belief...

After our walk, we were first to sit at the long buffet tables set for lunch...
On Mariam's recommendation, I ordered the grilled Pacu, a delicious freshwater fish and herbivorous cousin of the Piranha...
The entire tour group toasted our wonderful adventure and proceeded to shake hands and say "buen viaje" like seniors on graduation day...
The local musician struck up the tune using his hand-carved horsehair bow...

The joyful mood moved aboard the bus, as hours of excited conversation and laughter were literally followed by dancing and singing in the aisles. It was unforgettable to see the old folks forming a conga line that bounced back and forth from bathroom to windshield...

Eventually, things calmed down. Quiet whispers replaced the raucous Spanish chatter...

With our faces sort of stuck on "grin", we watched the world scroll by as the sun began to set...
A movie played. We stopped to eat--our Thanksgiving dinner--at the same diner where we saw the big frog a week before. Soon after we found our seats, sleep found us...

INTERMISSION

(Did you hear about our latest blog contest?!? The Argentina Border Patrol Contest? If not, go back and read "A Girl and Guy in Paraguay"!)

END INTERMISSION

After one night in Montevideo, we rested and reloaded our bags for Bariloche...
Thing #3: The ferry careened through some choppy swells, rocking its way to Buenos Aries, while sailboats slapped their way across the Rio de la Plata...
After getting yet another Argentina stamp in our passports, we snagged a taxi to the bus terminal...
This time, we had prime front row seats--just like when we'd return here a week later for The Police concert...

And before we knew it we were on an all day bus ride again, to the far side of another country--this time southwest, to the northern edge of Patagonia...
And, you know what, western Argentina and Uruguay look a lot alike...

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