Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Fuego, Cielo, Y Montevideo

It wasn't long after our return in early December that Montevideo's bevy of summer celebrations began. The first one is called "Noche de las Luces" or Night of the Lights. It happens just two blocks from our apartment on Pocitos beach and Punta Trouville. The Rambla is closed and cordoned off, stands and stages are assembled, and hundreds of police and hundreds of thousands of people crowd the waterfront boulevard and beaches for a night of revelry--all in anticipation of the biggest fireworks display of the year...
Leandra and I walked down as the sun began its descent. We are always awestruck by the deep neon colors of sunsets here--I assume it has something to do with the flat landscape that allows the latest of light to penetrate across the sky...
Every inch of the esplanade wall was taken as people crowded the streets and sand...
Soon, a short parade of floats slowly threaded the throngs, spewing confetti and song...
As children enjoyed the spectacle, we made our way to the water and got comfortable wiggling our butts into the beach to form seats, slipping off our sandals and digging our heels into the cool sand. While we waited, watching people talk and share their mate, we practiced Spanish by translating the commercials and songs that were blaring from a pair of scaffold speaker towers at both ends of the bay. Then, ten seconds before ten o'clock, the announcer started the countdown with 400,000 excited Uruguayans joining in...DIEZ, NUEVE, OCHO, SIETE, SEIS...
CINCO! CUATRO! TRES!! DOS!! UNO!!!...
The onshore breeze brought the clouds of sulfurous smoke our way as explosions ripped in synchronicity with a mixture of classic rock songs and classical anthems...



The finale was incredible--definitely one of the best fireworks displays we've ever seen. The applause afterwards was almost as long and loud as the half hour of mortars...

Walking home among thrilled children who yanked at the arms of aunts and uncles saying "Did you see that!?", we held hands and felt more a part of the culture than ever. And, we looked forward to the next three months of holidays...

Enjoy the show...

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