Outside the port authority building, treasures that have been saved from sunken ships, like masts and cannons from centuries ago, sit in a safe dry monument garden...
Despite its humble appearance, any sailor knows the practical importance of a ship's bell--to sound the time, for meals or watch changes. But, the bells take on extra symbolism when they are from famous ships whose crews often died in battle. This one is from the HMS Ajax, the flagship of the twenty-five boat British fleet that hunted down the infamous Nazi pocket battleship, the Admiral Graf Spee. She was a fast Leander-class light cruiser of the Royal Navy, and on December 13th, 1939, the Ajax squared off with the superior German ship--the Third Reich's most famous boat beside the Bismark. Despite taking seven hits from the Graf Spee's guns, the Ajax and her support vessels inflicted more damage, forcing the wounded Graf Spee to seek repairs and refuge in neutral port of Montevideo...This exchange is well chronicled and known around the world as the Battle of River Plate...
A few steps toward the wharf and we discovered El Capitan Miranda--Uruguay's historic naval training boat--which we first saw a year ago floating off of Punta del Este. We asked for permission to come aboard and the sailors, despite being busy prepping the ship for a trans-oceanic voyage, were more than proud to show off their ship to some curious gringos...
Several of the sailors spoke excellent English and walked us around her decks, cabins, mess, and even the bridge...
The current Uruguay Navy was moored nearby...
Built in 1930 as a cargo carrier, this ship became an Uruguayan survey vessel in the 1960's. In 1978 it became their naval training boat and also serves as an itinerant embassy for its country...
It is 64 meters long (205 feet) with a Staysail schooner's rigging and can do 10 knots...
It houses 80 to 90 sailors--five of those are currently women, all officers. Leandra was made an honorary crew member...
Our guide was a hospitable and well-spoken officer named Maximilian...
Despite having most of its original equipment and controls still in use, the bridge is also decked out with the latest in technology. Of course, a picture of the ship is on the desktop...
The shipmaster, or pilot, the third highest ranking officer on board, was present and working. The ship was covered with sailors painting and polishing every brass fixture or wood molding--they were preparing for a seven month journey to North America, Europe, and back...
We asked how much mate they would need for the trip. Our guide smiled, his eyes rolled back and he started thinking..."Well, 80 crew members, most of which drink a kilo or two per week, let's see, that's about...well, a LOT of mate!"
I did the math--they are going to need 2000-3000 pounds of mate!
We thanked our hosts and walked down the gangplank waving goodbye. A few steps later, we discovered another small monument park, where the range finder and anchor of the Graf Spee were on display...
After three days to attempt repairs, the Graf Spee was forced, according to international maritime code, to leave port. Captain Hans Langsdorff, being a man of honor, not only released all of his British merchant marine prisoners in Montevideo, but followed the laws of war, and headed back into open water, where he knew that British guns were waiting to sink his still injured ship. Instead of sacrificing his crew, he saved them by scuttling his own battleship, before the British could destroy her. They all escaped to Argentina where the captain committed suicide...
The telemeter, or range finder, from atop the ship was recovered in February 2004. The entire ship--a navigational hazard just outside the harbor--is slowly being raised, funded both privately and by the Uruguay government, and the process is being filmed by famed director and producer James Cameron. According to plans, the ship will eventually be the prized piece in Uruguay's National Marine Museum...
The ship's anchor sits nearby...
In the same plaza sit two old pieces of steam-powered port cargo equipment, surely more colorful and quiet than they originally were...
It's likely that these machines, among millions of other items, helped move the thousands of tons of granite that were shipped here to build Palacio Legislativo, Uruguay's gorgeous parliament building...
With our last few steps Leandra and I found the dock where our future boat, the Star Princess would park on March 31--and we would embark on our journey home...
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